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Q. Can I convert a 115v line into a 120v line?

A. 115 volt and 120 volt are essentially the same. Incidentally, most utility companies accept a 10 percent variance on their output as normal.

Q. How much space do I need in my ceiling for recessed lighting?

A. Ceiling clearances for recessed lighting vary according to manufacturer, type, size, and bulb wattage. If there is not adequate clearance, the built-in thermal protector will cause the light to turn off and on as it heats and cools.
Check the installation instructions, or better yet, contact a qualified, licensed electrical contractor.

Q. Could roof leaks be a danger and cause electrical problems?

A. Typically, electrical wiring is surrounded by a waterproof insulation jacket. If the wiring is not spliced, a leak probley won’t create a problem. However, any splice in the wiring can have catastrophic results if exposed to moisture. This would include light fixtures, junction/splice boxes, smoke detectors, and outlets. Moisture can penetrate wire connections and cause corrosion or a shocking situation. It is suggested that any time electricity is exposed to water, a qualified, licensed electrician inspect the area for safety.

Q. Why do my lights flicker when my AC or heater is activated in my new townhouse?

A. This is due to a heavy electrical load required to start your aire conditioner or heater, and the resulting voltage fluctuation. You may notice a similar flicker when you turn on your electric stove, or to a lesser degree, when the refrigerator, deep freeze, or garage door opener turn on.
If the flickering is more than one or two seconds long, it could be indicative of a loose connection in your electrical wiring.

Q. Which type of home improvements will you see a return on when you sell your home?

A. According to Remodeling magazine, kitchen remodels bring the highest return on your investment, with about a 92 percent return the first year. Bathroom remodels come in at a close second at 90 percent return the first year. Keep in mind that the payback is better when the improvements conform to the neighborhood standards and are not heavily customized to your particular wants. Investing in the addition of a second bathroom in a neighborhood where most homes have two bathrooms will give a nice return, at around 86 percent the first year for a mid-range addition.

Q. How would you combine a two-sink bathroom into a one?

A. The simplest solution is to keep the existing two-sink vanity, disconnect the plumbing for one of the sinks, install a new one-sink vanity top, and then reinstall just one of the existing sinks (the sink will be offset). If the single sink is to be centered, a new vanity cabnet will need to be purchased, and the plumbing moved to the new single-sink location. If you don’t want to move the plumbing, you can still get a pleasing asymmetrical look with a creative combination of new cabinets – try varying the height of the cabinets and carrying the materials of the cabinets and/or vanity tops.

Q. We are building a beach cottage with a ‘30’s theme. In our kitchen we have Fiestaware, open white shelves above white cabinets, and a white subway tile back splash with a ‘30s porcelain farmhouse sink. What would be good for the countertops? We are trying to avoid white tile.

A. In staying with the ‘30’s theme, I would recommend laminate countertops. Laminate offers durability and versatility, plus it is very cost effective. Laminates are available in beautiful textures and colors. To really enhance the vintage look, specify a metal edge for the countertops.

Q. My bathroom had old tile from the ‘50s. After taking the tile off the wall, I have ugly black glue. Should I replace the drywall before retiling?

A. I would recommend you “take it down to the studs” and start again. Here’s why: If the bathroom is 50 years old, chances are there may be some unforeseen problems within the walls and now you have a great opportunity to address them. Not only can you make the necessary repairs, but you’ll be able to upgrade the construction prior to installation of your new tile. If the area is surrounding the tub, you will want to install cement backer board and upgrade your shower valve and supply lines. If the area is around your vanity, while replacing the drywall you can add an additional outlet for all those necessary items invented after the ‘60s. The outlet should be a GFCI outlet for safety.

Q. When adding an addition [onto your home], is it more effective to tie in with an existing HVAC or install a separate furnace and AC unit?

A. If a new addition or even extensive remodeling is being done on your home, a heat loss/cooling load calculation should be performed to determine exactly how much heating and cooling is required to maintain comfort on the coldest/hottest days. The load calculation should then be compared to the existing HVAC equipment to see if it can handle the added load. The existing duct system also needs to be checked to verify that it can support the added air distribution requirements. Will the addition need heat at the same time as the rest of the structure? For instance, if you are finishing a basement, there are going to be times that the basement will need heat when the rest of the house does not. In this situation, either a zoning system is required or a separate unit will need to be installed to heat the basement. If not, when trying to heat the basement, you will overheat the upstairs.

Q. Approximately how much does an Aire Serv Air Treatment System cost?

A. The cost of an Aire Serv Air Treatment System (ASATS) can vary based upon the location of your equipment, the area around the equipment, and the market that you are in. The ASATS is mounted on the return air end of your furnace or electric air handler. In some cases, the existing equipment has to be removed and reinstalled after the ASATS is put into place. In other cases we are able to install them with less labor. To find out exactly what an ASATS will cost for your system. Call your local Aire Serv franchisee for an estimate. Most Aire Serv companies will provide you an estimate at no cost.

Q. No matter how many times I vacuum or mop the floor, I have dust on everything. Why? I have a HEPA filter in my furnace.

A. Obviously, dust is finding its way into your home from somewhere, and your filteration system is not adequately removing the dust from the air in your home. The trick to solving the problem is to either eliminate the source of the dust or install a filtration system that can remove it, or possibly both. My advice would be to contact your local Aire Serv contractor and ask him to analyze the problem to present you with a solution.

Q. Should I replace a 10-year-old HAVC unit? It seems to need some repairs every year.

A. In your area, 10 to 15 years is about the average life of an HVAC system. You should have a qualified service technician inspect and evaluate your system. I would not spend a lot of repair money on a unit that only has a few years left at best. Also, you can replace the unit with a higher efficiency system and start realizing savings on your monthly utilities.