A Glass Act

Forget vintage.
To some connoisseurs, the glass is as important as the wine.

By DEBRA GORDON

Arlene Dobren won't leave home without it. "It" is her Riedel Burgundy Grand Cru wine glass, just perfect for quaffing the Oregon Pinot Noir she buys by the case. She's so certain that the glass enhances the wine, in fact, that the 58-year-old retired New York City guidance counselor carries her goblet in a special carrying case to friends' houses, BYOB restaurants, and travel destinations.

"I've come to love the thinness of certain wine glasses, and if I have to drink out of a less expensive, thicker glass, I'd almost rather not drink the wine," she says.

Dobren has discovered what true wine lovers have known for years — whether it's a $70 Riedel Sommelier or a $5 made-in-China generic wine glass from Wal-Mart, the right stemware can make a good wine better and a great wine extraordinary.

Don't believe us? Try this test on an unsuspecting friend. Pour the same Pinot Noir into three different wine glasses — a small, mass produced glass, a white wine glass, and a more expensive, handblown glass especially meant for Pinot or other medium intensity red wine. Tell your tester each glass holds a different wine, then ask him or her to pick a favorite. Chances are, the wine in the thinnest glass with the largest bowl will win every time.

Why? Two reasons, says Robert Hall, president of Bottega del Vino Crystal, which imports and sells break-resistant, handblown Italian stemware. First, the glass is the instrument used to convey the wine to your mouth. Just as you wouldn't want to use a rusty spoon for a delectable chocolate mousse, you wouldn't want to use a thick, clumsy glass for a fine wine (or even a $7 bottle of Yellow Tail).

Second, and most important, the glass is vital for the wine. "The size and shape of the glass has a dramatic effect on the wine," says Hall. Particularly for red wine, which has often been in the bottle for years. Wine needs oxygen to fully open and unleash its full flavor, which the large bowl of a good wine glass allows.

"If the wine matters, so does the glass," he says, quoting the company motto.

The Riedel Effect

Blame, or thank, crystal stemware manufacturer Riedel Inc., for the current interest in wine glass shapes. In the 1950s, ninth-generation family member Claus J. Riedel was the first glass manufacturer to change wine glasses from the traditional colored, cut glass to the clear, simple, thin glasses we have today. A few years later, in 1961, Riedel introduced the first collection of wine glasses designed for different grape varietals.

But the crowning glory didn't occur until more than a decade later, in 1973, when Riedel introduced its classic Sommelier series of glasses, still sold today. With seven red wine glasses, 10 white wine glasses, three champagne flutes, and eight glasses for fortified wines, the line has become the standard by which other wine glass manufacturers measure themselves.

In fact, esteemed wine critic Robert Parker uses Riedel stemware for his tastings. He once called the effect of Riedel glasses on fine wine "profound." "I cannot emphasize enough what a difference they make," he is quoted as saying.

The reality, however, is that unless you're the Robert Parker of your neighborhood, it's highly unlikely you're going to have 17 different wine glass sets. Where on earth would you store them all? Plus, says Hall, it's really not necessary.

"Our philosophy is that you do not need a different glass for every grape variety. Just one for the four major categories: white, red, champagne, and dessert wine." Robert Hall, president of Bottega del vino Crystal

Red Wine Glass
Unless you're drinking fine, aged Bordeaux, a classic wine glass will work well for most red wines, says Hall. The large bowl, designed to expose the maximum surface of wine to the air, and the tapered rim, designed to direct the wine to the sides and back of the tongue. If you're drinking Grand Cru Bordeaux or Burgundies, a similar glass with a longer stem and larger bowl might be in order.

White Wine Glass
White wines don't need as much air as red wines to open up, and the smaller, narrower bowl of the white wine glass reflects that. Meanwhile, the shape of the rim directs the wine towards the front of the mouth, a more sensitive area for sweetness.

Dessert
Dessert wine glasses are small, designed to concentrate the fruit of the wine without calling attention to the alcohol. The small opening also forces your mouth to pucker up, putting the sweet wine right at the tip of the tongue, says Hall.

Champagne Glass
Since champagne or sparkling wine is, first and foremost, a white wine, a slightly slimmer, flute-shaped white wine glass is considered ideal for most sparkling wines. "But if you truly love your champagne, try drinking it out of a spumante glass says Hall. The gently drawn up sides help focus the bouquet of the wine without suppressing the bubbles.

The Right Glass for the Right Wine

When it comes to buying wine glasses, the options are nearly limitless. You can pick up some cheap, don't-care-if-they-break glasses at your local dollar store, choose one in every color at the big-box home stores, or order high-end from wine aficionado catalogs and Web sites. Here's our guide to buying.

A WINE-GLASS-FOR-EVERY-WINE Pick up a quartet of Riedel Inc.'s trendy Riedel "O" series (otherwise known as stemless wine glasses) for $19.95 at cooking.com. Then stock up on their Ouverture line, Riedel's "uncomplicated beginner series for customers who appreciate good, reasonably priced wine." Visit riedel.com for a list of retailers near you; visit cooking.com, where a set of four retails for $39.95.

IF YOU'RE WILLING TO SPEND A BIT MORE Try Bottega del Vino Crystal. Sure, a single red wine glass will set you back $37.98, but isn't it worth it for that $100 bottle of Pinot you've been saving? bottegadelvinocrystal.com

THE PARTY GLASS Pier 1 stocks a fun selection of wine glasses, ranging from classic clear to autumn gold, festive striped, cobalt blue, and even a dramatic purple and amber set. Prices start at $2 each for Classic Stemware. pier1.com

IF YOUR NICKNAME IS "KLUTZ" Prone to accidents? Then Schott Zwiesel's titan crystal is for you. Considered "break resistant," the company features several collections at varying prices. $49.95 for a set of four from wineenthusiast.com.

THE FANCY GLASS If cut crystal is the only crystal you want gracing your table, try Waterford. With dozens of patterns from which to choose, you can go contemporary or traditional. Prices start at $45 each. waterford.com

HOSTING A BIG PARTY OR INTO WINE TASTINGS? Then you need wine glasses in bulk. Try Ace Mart Restaurant Supply House, where you can get 12 red wine glasses for $35.99. acemart.com

ONE OF A KIND If you really want something unique (and don't care about actually seeing the wine once it's poured), how about the white onyx wine glasses from Khan Imports? A set of six sells for $89.99 at khanimports.com.

Debra Gordon is an award-winning writer and author of numerous consumer health books. She has written for Family Circle, Parents, and Better Homes & Gardens.